Ozark Mill at Finley Farms, Ozark
February 2024
Chef Kevin Korman spent much of his 25 year career working with restaurants from Florida to Tennessee. When he got the call about this project, he was intrigued. One year before the restaurant opened in 2020 he began work on menu concepts.
“I’m a big believer in sense of place. Cooking locally is all about storytelling through food,” says Korman. “I dug into the history of Ozark cuisine, which has Appalachian influences and tied the cuisine into the mill itself.”
Farm-to-table and grain-to-table, the menu reflects Korman’s philosophy. Not only does the restaurant dedicate acreage for growing produce, but it also initiated a composting program. An ever-evolving “Market Menu,” highlights produce grown on-site as well as by local dairy farmers and ranchers.
“Last year we grew an heirloom variety of corn that we sent to Dogwood Canyon where they milled it at our sister property and sent it back as cornmeal. We used it in our entrees and desserts,” says Korman. “Sustainability is huge so we pickle, puree and freeze in order to use our produce year-round.”
My husband and I started with five-cheese spinach dip created with a roasted wild mushroom medley and white truffle oil on grilled bread. Quite popular, the green tomato cake showcased the 600 pounds of tomatoes annually grown on site. From the “Market Menu,” an unexpected riff on traditional caprese salad featured charred cucumbers mixed with heirloom tomatoes, fresh herbs and burrata. Excellent short rib pasta with 12-hour braised Missouri beef sat atop a light alfredo pasta tossed with herbs, arugula and roasted wild mushrooms. Creamy chicken and dumpling-like cornbread gnocchi hinted of mustard for a non-traditional twist. Peach cobbler won out for dessert. Fresh thyme and peaches garnished a flakey buttermilk biscuit and crème fresh ice cream.
Cocktails and mocktails incorporated in-house syrups. Draft beers hailed from local breweries. Wines tied into the overall menu. Afterward, we strolled through the chef’s garden and across the restored bridge to check out the farm’s open-air wedding chapel at sunset.
For more information, visit FinleyFarmsMo.com/eat-drink.
Big D's BBQ, Branson
November 2023
My husband and I visited to find out if Big D’s lived up to all the accolades.
As we dug into a sampler platter heaped with generous half-pounds of smoked brisket, pork, chicken and sausage, a half-rack of Memphis-style ribs and various sides, owner Dana Peterson sat down to chat. I begin to understand what all the buzz was about and why the restaurant was packed to capacity. His wife Linda, known as Mama D, partners with him to make it all happen.
The 28-day aged, certified angus beef, which makes it very tender.
“Our meats are smoked low and slow over pecan wood up to 14 hours,” says Dana.
During Dana’s previous career in finance—he retired in 2017—hunting and smoking meats for backyard barbecues eventually led to hosting 150 guests. Along the way, Dana discovered his passion for cooking. The next step led to a food truck in a dirt lot on Highway 76, and in 2018, Dana and Linda opened a brick-and-mortar restaurant. When Covid hit, they closed the restaurant and continued to develop a following through take-out before reopening in their current location.
“Linda and I have traveled all over the nation, and we like many different styles of barbecue,” says Dana. “We’re the only ones in the area that smoke whole hogs and gators. We serve Memphis-style ribs, Texas-style brisket, a Carolina-style sandwich with slaw and a vinegar-mustard sauce and burnt ends with a sweet Kansas City-style sauce.”
Although hard to choose a favorite, we gravitated to the burnt ends and tender brisket. Sides included a satisfyingly smoked mac n’ cheese, southern-style green beans, coleslaw made daily and Dana’s mom’s potato salad. Creative specials, announced frequently on Facebook, bring in the locals for burnt end gumbo, brisket grilled cheese or smoked gator offered several times a year.
Linda’s desserts include bourbon and bacon pecan pie, salted caramel banana pudding and giant turtle caramel fudge brownies. Recently, she designed the catchy labels for Big D’s sauces and seasonings, now bottled for retail and online sale.
For more information, visit BigDsBBQBranson.com.
Handel Haus and Wine, Women & Song, Cole Camp
August 2023
Inspired by her first boutique almost 30 years ago, Judy Smasal has singlehandedly created two destination tearooms in Cole Camp. Guests drive from Kansas City, St. Louis and surrounding states to partake of her elaborate high teas and to shop.
Handel Haus, her first tearoom, occupies a corner 1920’s brick building sporting a nostalgic tin ceiling that was formerly a Western Auto store and motorcycle repair shop. Several years ago, she opened Wine, Women & Song across the street in another historic building that celebrates afternoon teas, champagne lunches and eclectic shopping.
While staying at The Silos at Prairie Vale, about 30 minutes away, my husband and I explored Cole Camp with its rich German heritage. Handel Haus topped our short list.
Relaxed and artsy, the tearoom tucks into the main floor chock-full of home décor, clothing and more. Upstairs, furniture and year-round Christmas goods add another layer of shopping. The basement’s vintage market constantly changes, curated from estate sales throughout Missouri.
Always evolving, Handel Haus’ lunch menu features three or four quiches, such as a yummy chicken bacon Monterey that is baked daily. Judy whips up her grandmother’s excellent chicken salad that contains grapes and celery. Two to three soups rotate daily from a repertoire of 50 recipes ranging from hearty cheeseburger to cream of asparagus. Homemade, melt-in-your-mouth croissants or ground wheatberry bread are a must-order.
Wine, Women & Song’s high tea lunches feature three tiers of crustless sandwiches and mini-quiches. Scones, biscuits and lemon curd entice on the second tier, while sweets, cookies and fruit kabobs cap off this mid-day feast. Served on 1930s and ‘40s china, it feels fancy, not stuffy. Individual tea pots deliver a variety of teas. Wine, beer or cocktails are available.
Take-home baked goods include cookies, seasonal desserts and wheatberry bread. Large groups of 40 to 50 can order from a limited menu at Handel Haus. High tea serves from two to 24 guests at Wine, Women & Song. Boutique merchandise is 25 percent off every first Friday.
Upcoming celebrations include September’s Cole Camp Fair and Octoberfest followed by Pumpkin Fest. Christbaumfest takes place just before Thanksgiving. Luminaries light up the town for December’s Christkindlmarket that some describe as a Hallmark-style Christmas event featuring live shop windows, caroling, a living nativity and petting zoo.
Visit Handel Haus on Facebook for more information.
The Hawthorne Inn, Labadie
May 2023
Tucked into the rolling hills of Missouri’s wine country, The Hawthorne Inn restaurant makes the journey worthwhile. Since its humble beginnings 28 years ago, regular customers have traveled from the surrounding area and St. Louis, about an hour’s drive away. While staying in Augusta, my husband and I navigated winding country backroads laced with wineries to try out the extensive menu and enjoy the laidback vibe.
Owner-chef Chris Hancock enjoys developing new recipes, and produce for the from-scratch menu is often sourced from local farms. Throughout the years, Chris and his wife, Cathy, have made a formidable team alongside their loyal employees. They opened in an 1800s general store before the restaurant moved several doors down to its current location. Above the bar and dining room, artist Bryan Dawes Haynes created a mural depicting Labadie’s history. Dawes, whose gallery is located in nearby Washington, painted it in a similar style to renowned Missouri artist Thomas Hart Benton.
Nearly full, the restaurant was buzzing; on weekends, the wait without reservations can be lengthy. Our waitress highly recommended what she declared “adult cotton candy,” a flash-fried spinach appetizer tossed with a hint of lemon juice and parmesan. Piled high on the plate—thin and crispy, salty and tangy—even veggie avoiders might find it hard to resist. A coconut shrimp appetizer, spiced up by pineapple mango dipping sauce, was also nicely executed. Between courses, we slathered butter on bread from Fazio’s Bakery on “The Hill” in St. Louis.
In the mood for fish, two popular entrees caught our eye. Lightly breaded and charbroiled, the mahi-mahi featured a homemade seafood stuffing of three cheeses, shrimp and crab over wilted spinach, perfectly complimented by a light white wine-butter-lemon sauce. A sweet-spicy twist, charbroiled salmon drizzled with a honey-thyme glaze was finished with a flavorful Cajun roasted red pepper and caramelized shallot cream sauce. Pork chops, steaks, chicken dishes and made-to-order pastas rounded out the menu.
Diners can opt for a cocktail from the full bar or choose from a variety of beers on tap or wine. Catering for groups of up to 70 people is available next door at the Town Hall.
“Every dish and sauce are made to order except the tomato sauce and the fish stuffing, which we make ahead of time,” says Cathy. “And it’s a must to try our house dessert, which is my coconut crème pie recipe using a shortbread cookie crust.”
Visit TheHawthorneInn.net for more information.
Prasino, St. Charles
February 2023
In Greek, Prasino translates “green.”
The name definitely fits chef and partner Tony Marchetto’s farm-to-table menu. Building around seasonality, he emphasizes sustainability and organic ingredients.
“This morning, I’ve already talked to three farmers, who will be walking through the door with produce and meat that will be on our menu tonight or tomorrow,” says Marchetto.
As a first-generation Italian, Marchetto grew up in Kirkwood. His mother and grandmother cooked with fresh ingredients, rotating between summer tomatoes and garden herbs to cold-hardy plants in the fall. They often made fresh pasta and pizza crust.
Prasino’s chic contemporary interior invites inside and out. For dinner, my husband and I chose the spacious side patio. We started with delectably crisp, wood-fired grilled wings accompanied by spicy feta dip and the noteworthy bacon flatbread. Generously topped, the flatbread arrived with caramelized onion, bacon and Vermont white cheddar over dough that is made daily and baked over cherry wood, infusing a smoky flavor. The well-executed lava roll combined tuna, blue crab, avocado and a not-too-spicy fire cracker sauce—a testament to Marchetto’s commitment to his sushi and seafood dishes with fresh fish arriving daily.
Entrees included homemade ravioli filled with Maine lobster, escarole and squash, topped with a velvety mascarpone crème sauce—rich, but not overly so. The sauce is one I’d like to experiment with at home. The locally-sourced fillet was cooked to perfection. Drizzled with house-made Dijon crème, the steak sat atop a red potato hash of mushrooms, kale, garlic and bleu cheese; nuanced flavors delivered an outstanding dish. Served at several tables near us, we also ordered a side of truffled potatoes drizzled with aioli and topped with chives—decadent and worth every calorie. Tacos, featuring shrimp or short rib variations, and the Prasino burger remain ever-popular. Most dishes are finished with cold-pressed olive oil, instead of butter, and lightly seasoned.
Prasino’s farm-to-bar cocktails incorporate fresh-pressed juices, coconut milk, local brews and wines. House-made desserts include ice cream and sherbet. Fruity mango sherbet and chocolate lava cake topped with vanilla ice cream deliver just the right finish.
Marchetto certainly appreciates the accolades. However, he commented that his ultimate reward is coming to work every day alongside his exceptional culinary team. Marchetto desires that the food speak for itself, and it certainly does. So much so that the next morning, we returned for an equally delicious breakfast.
Visit PrasinoStCharles.com for more information.